The first time I visited Santa Fe it was a cold, wet December day. Patches of ice were scattered among small dirty puddles where snow had melted. The small pools reflected the red-brown adobe buildings and bright blue sky above while the crisp wind whipped through my hair, piercing my chapped lips. Although it was in the mid-thirties and I’d had enough wine to fill Bevmo as it was just two days after Christmas, I still found myself chugging a cold margarita. It was inside the Inn of the Anasazi, a Rosewood property just off the main plaza, in the lobby bar. The dimly lit bar sat off from the check-in desk, where beams of frigid light poured in whenever the door swung open. I was busy sipping a spicy marg and thinking about how just one day in the artistic town was not near enough. So when I received the chance to visit again, this time for 5 days and in much less icy weather, I jumped. And yes, the imminent margaritas and green chile may have been half the reason.
This time, it was the first day of May when I touched down in the Land of Enchantment. The days were warm and nights cool. Long sleeve top and mini skirt type of weather. But no matter how cool it is outside, you can always warm up from the inside by eating so much chile your lips go numb. While Santa Fe (and all of New Mexico) is worth visiting for the chile alone, there’s plenty more to enjoy. Here’s my top picks for the ultimate Santa Fe stay.
Hotel Santa Fe
About a 15-minute walk from the downtown plaza (where all the great shopping and dining is), Hotel Santa Fe is a cute, historic hotel with all the southwestern appeal you could ask for. Owned by the Picuris Tribe, it’s actually the only Native American-owned hotel in downtown Santa Fe and it’s home to a multi-million dollar Native American art collection.
Sazon
If you visit Santa Fe for nothing but a trip to Sazon, you’re doing things right. While New Mexico overall can be fairly casual, Sazon is an upscale destination worthy of celebratory dinners and special nights out. Walls are covered in larger-than-life artwork featuring mostly Mexico’s beloved femme fatale, Frida Kahlo. Sazon is led by Mexico City-native chef Fernando Olea so expect less New Mexican and more traditional Mexican cuisine (yes, there is a difference. Just ask a local). Mole is the star of the small yet mighty menu and you’d be wrong to not try out the tasting menu. I can’t even rave enough about the dessert which came out first. While my initial thought, as me not being a sweet-lover, was “yes, let’s get this out of the way,” I was quickly floored upon first bite. This eclectic gem of a treat was a mix of ginger avocado jalapeño ice cream with beet sauce. WTF kind of dessert is this you ask? A damn delicious one. The rest of the meal was filled with just-as amazing dishes from the spicy salsas to the oh-so-good moles.
La Plazuela
If you’re about to lose it if you don’t get some downright New Mexican, covered-in-chile, light-you-on-fire dishes then stop at La Plazuela. Even if you don’t eat here (you should though), peek in to check out the killer interior. Housed inside La Fonda on the Plaza, the outlet is surrounded by stained glass on all sides with a central fountain and twinkling trees (yes, trees coming out of the ground – magical right?). The space is beaming with natural light and their menu pleases even those not keen on the chile. I visited for breakfast and died over the huevos rancheros. However, the blue-corn piñon pancakes caught my eye as well.
Fun fact: Piñon is a species of pine trees native to the Southwest. They yield edible nuts and are commonly used in New Mexican food. Piñon coffee, for example, is popular among locals.
Santa Fe School of Cooking
Whether you want to learn how to whip up New Mexican cuisine at home or grab some southwestern cookbooks, ingredients or cookware, stop into the Santa Fe School of Cooking. The sleek kitchen makes it easy to follow along and they offer classes on all the need-to-knows including salsas, tamales and tacos, plus the ever-important chile. Learn the differences in types and how to handle and cook with an array of chiles.
Canyon Road
I’m not a huge art-enthusiast so normally a street lined with never-ending galleries and exhibits wouldn’t entice me much but Canyon Road did. Located within walking distance of the plaza, Canyon Road is a charming street packed with more than 75 galleries and studios of nearly every type of art you can imagine. What I loved the most about it were the photo-opps. If you’re looking for the bold-colored doors famous to the Southwest, you’ll find them here. Plus, adobe buildings abound. You can’t lose.
Native American Vendors at the Palace of the Governors
The plaza and surrounding areas are home to many shops but if you’re looking for jewelry and other turquoise goods, head to the plaza’s center where the Palace of the Governors is located. Dozens of vendors (who have to be vetted and approved) line up to showcase their handmade items. Every vendor here must be members of New Mexico tribes and pueblos and follow regulations to ensure authenticity, so you know you’re getting the real deal. Not only is it some of the prettiest finds, but you can chat with artists to find out more about each piece. They often have crazy cool stories and are super friendly without being pushy at all. It’s a pleasant experience and you’re always bound to find something.
